Open Air Markets in the 18th Arrondissement

Outdoor Market in Paris

While Monoprix is just fine for pasta, toiletries and canned goods, it’s at the outdoor markets of a neighborhood where one can find the freshest produce, meats and cheeses in France. Visiting the markets is also a pleasurable way to get to know the inhabitants of the quartier (not to mention their eating habits). By smelling the peaches, tasting the grapes and picking up the bell peppers, you learn with all your senses. The first rule of going to the markets is don’t be shy. Start by gathering a couple tomatoes and the merchant will hand you a plastic bag or a basket. Put each type of produce in a different container and hand them all to him when you are ready to pay. He will then weigh each one. If possible, visit the markets with a local and watch what they do. If not, just observe the other customers and follow suit. French Markets are friendly places where people ask questions and exchange information. Don’t be afraid to participate! You may even feel like a local yourself after a trip to one of these colorful carrefours.

Rue Ordener, near rue Damrémont. Metro Jules Joffrin. Wednesday and Saturday mornings until 1pm

If you are looking for a hunk of runny brie or a couple of merguez sausages, this is your stop. There are many butcher and fromagerie stands at this market, so take your pick. Also at this relatively tranquil market is an assortment of women’s and men’s clothing (pants for as little as five euros), undergarments, socks, kitchenware, towels, jewelry, hair accessories and of course fresh fruits and vegetables. There are also pots of honey and local wines on offer. You can even find such specifics as slippers or a bottle opener. Go right ahead and bargain over the fine array of new pots and pans or the antique plates and silverware.

Porte Montmartre, boulevard Ney near rue du Poteau. Metro Porte de Clignancourt Thursday and Sunday mornings

This lively market includes mountains of fresh fruits and vegetables, several fish stands and clothing stands with pajamas, shoes and children’s clothing. Ve

ndors yell out their products along with the prices, “le melon 1 euro!” and there is much hustling and bustling of customers of all different cultures. Prices here are low: 6 figs, 4 apples and half a kilo of green beans costs less than 2 Euros. The fish monger will empty the fish for you, but it’s up to you to de-scale it.

Boulevard Ornano, near metro Simplon. Tuesday and Sunday mornings until 1pm

Even more energetic than the Porte Montmartre market, boulevard Ornano is a North African market that sells fruits and vegetables (common as well as exotic) in large quantities at rock bottom prices. Here one can also find halaal meats, fish, roasted corn and other interesting delicacies. Customers will haggle over a bag of grapes or a kilo of tomatoes to ensure they get the best price.

Happy marketing!

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris

Having a Drink at a Paris Café

Cafe Les Deux Magots

In France, life happens in cafés. You are sure to see lovers having coffee at a café terrace watching the world go by, or a group of friends drinking beers at the bar while discussing politics. However, even if you know the language, mastering café culture in France is a hands-on experience. Here, a few tips for an enjoyable café outing.

It is often the case in bistros that if you arrive between meals you are not brought a menu. It is assumed that you know what you want given that a) there are the same staples available at most cafes in France and b) there is probably a menu written on a board somewhere that you are supposed to have already read.

In general, the French go to cafes between meals to have a drink. The default choice is coffee: un café (espresso), un noisette (espresso with a drop of milk), un café crème (similar to a latte), un cappuccino or un déca (decaf). A coffee is usually around 2 euro and a crème around 3.5 euro in Paris.

There are also of course fruit juices (i.e. jus d’orange) and soft drinks such as Coca, Coca-light, and Fanta. The French add syrup to water for another option like menthe á l’eau (mint flavored water) or unsweetened lemonade, un citron pressé. Sparkling water like Perrier is also very popular. Non alcoholic drinks tend to be a bit more expensive than in the US, 3 to 4 euro in Paris, but remember that this includes the tip and that you can sit at your table for as long as you want.

For beer, just ask “Vous avez quoi comme pression?” (What do you have on tap?) The national beer, equivalent to Budweiser in the US, is Kronenbourg (“Kro”) or 1664. The latter, often called Seize, is of higher quality. Common beers available are Grimbergen, Leffe and Heineken, which all taste different from when ordered in the US because they do not contain the preservatives added when they are exported to the states. Un demi (25 cl) is the standard size of beer in France, while une pinte is a pint. Un demi is usually between 3-5 euro, a pint costs 5-8 euro in Paris.

Ask for la carte (the menu) if you want to order wine or food. The house wine is often available by the carafe which is a less expensive option and usually pleasant. Kir, white wine with cassis or other flavored syrup, is a popular before dinner drink. For a real treat, try a kir royal, which substitutes the white wine for champagne.

A good happy hour price is around 5 euro for a pint or a cocktail. Happy hour, sometimes written as “Happy Hours,” is roughly between 5 and 9 pm. During this time, also called l’apéro or l’apéritif in France, drinks are often served with peanuts or olives.

If hunger strikes, most cafés offer planches de charcuterie ou fromages, a platter of meats and/or cheeses, ranging from 7-12 euro.

A note about water: it is not handed out as readily as it is in the US. If you are having dinner in a restaurant, it is normal to receive a carafe of water for the table. If you are just having a drink, however, you must normally ask for it. Some waiters are picky and want you to buy a bottle of water if you are just having a drink, but most of the time they should bring it free of charge as long as you have ordered something.

Santé !

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris

 

Getting a Haircut in Paris

French haircut at Tchip

The ends of my hair were straw. It had been four months since my last appointment. I had been using the “but we just got here” excuse for long enough: it was time to get a haircut in Paris.

I had been keeping an eye out around my neighborhood in the 18th for a good hair salon. While 38 euro at a fancy boutique seemed a bit too indulgent, I didn’t feel comfortable heading over to boulevard Barbès for a shady sit-on-a-bucket-and-lean-over-the sink 10 euro experience. A place interestingly called Tchip on rue Ordener, advertising “petits prix,” really did look quite cheap. You could get a shampoo, cut and blow-dry (shampooing + coupe + brushing) for 20 euro. Plus, there were a bunch of people inside of all ages and backgrounds getting their hair done, which I took to be a good sign.

When I walked in, a woman with bleach blond bangs and a sub-layer of black hair took my name and showed me to the waiting area, which consisted of three chairs and was shoved into the back corner of the salon behind a woman having her hair colored. I squeezed past, grabbed a copy of Marie Claire and took one of the two empty seats.

A couple came in next, and as there was only one chair left, only one of them could sit. I pretended not to notice as the young man sat down, followed shortly by his girlfriend sitting in his lap. Did I mention that it was a tight space? French people are extremely gifted at blocking out the rest of the world, even when the rest of the world happens to be sitting right next to them.

Finally I was called by the skunk-haired girl. “Qu’est-ce qu’on fait?” she asked. Juste couper les pointes et dégradé un peu partout comme la coupe que j’ai déjà. Just a trim with layers all over like the way my hair us cut already. Bon. She convinced me to add a “soin” of Kérastase for just 3 euro (half off this month from 6). I thought it was a hair treatment and thus was really happy about the price, but I believe now it was just a high quality après-shampooing (conditioner). She let the soin soak in and disappeared for a smoke break, leaving me with my hair wet and still leaning back in the sink.

I reached up to grab the towel around my neck to wipe off my wet ears, but the towel fell to the floor and I was helpless. When the hairdresser came back, smelling of smoke, I told her la serviette est tombée. She smiled, picked it up off the floor, and put it back around my shoulders. Very hygienic.

My hair rinsed but still dripping, we went over to the chair. I removed my glasses, and she promptly started hacking away like a madwoman. As I had taken off my glasses, I couldn’t see a damn thing. I decided to close my eyes, relax, and put my trust in Tchip. I heard the scissors rip through my hair to create the layered effect. I winced. The cutting was done at record speed. I kept my eyes closed throughout the blow-dry process and allowed myself to enjoy the feeling of having my hair done. Alas, that part didn’t last long either. She turned the hairdryer off, spritzed some serum on my hair and Poof! C’est fait.

She handed me a mirror; I looked. It was just like every time I get my haircut in France: lots of layers, shorter than I thought I wanted, but not quite the Jennifer Aniston. I looked like a French girl, and considered it part of the integration process.

Despite my reluctance to go in because of the decidedly un-chic name, and even with the “wham bam thank you ma’am” speed and lack of personal attention, I must say that after all, the hairdresser did a good job. In another 3 months, I will probably fork over another 20 euro for another go ‘round at Tchip.

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

If you like getting lost in nature in the middle of the city, I suggest a visit to Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement. Take line 5 to Laumière and walk uphill on avenue Laumière. If you want to have a picnic, stop at a boulangerie or a supermarket on the way up. You will eventually arrive at Place Armand Carrel where you will find the city hall of the 19th arrondissement as well as the main entrance to the park. Just past the entryway there is a lovely lake with grassy hills behind it as well as several waterfalls cascading down steep rocky cliffs. Find a place on the grass or at a bench here to have your picnic, or continue up the hill for a nice view of the city.

At the top of the hill, there is a lookout point at an old water tower that boasts a rare view of the basilica du Sacré Coeur. Take a moment to appreciate the height: there are not many large hills in Paris. Here you will also find playground areas for children and paths for runners or walkers. Many people are spread out on the lawn reading a book or chatting with friends.

For those who prefer an outdoor café to a picnic, head back down to the lake and make a left towards the Pavillion du Lac where you can enjoy a leisurely lunch or a drink.

Whatever your fancy, the greenery of Parc des Buttes Chaumont is sure to leave you relaxed and rejuvenated.

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris