Monthly Archives: July 2012

Rosa Bonheur: A Secret Oasis in the Park

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Rosa Bonheur:                             Little oasis among the trees

Come out to hilly Buttes Chaumont Park in the 19th arrondissement to escape the hustle and bustle of central Paris. After a day of lounging in one of the few parks where you can actually lay on the grass without a policeman coming up and shaking his finger at you, walk up to this little café hidden in the trees for a little refreshment.

Named after a modern female artist who lived in the eighteen hundreds, Rosa Bonheur is a guinguette, a friendly open-air café offering sandwiches, wine and beer to hungry and thirsty picnickers up on the hill. Like its namesake, this quirky establishment values the passionate, independent personalities who stop by and contribute to the colorful ambiance at play here.

Enter Buttes Chaumont Park at the town hall entrance. Make your way left and uphill past the lookout tower. The little white and green pavilion with benches outside beckons as a haven in the woods should. Step inside and admire the wooden bar and artsy decorations. Order a pint of 1664 on tap or a bottle of wine to share with friends. Find a seat on a bench outside and spend the afternoon watching kids and couples stroll by. Stay long enough to see the sky turn pink as the sun sets behind the city. Take a deep breath of fresh air and savor your little piece of happiness in the park.

 

Rosa Bonheur, guinguette

Parc des Buttes Chaumont
2, allée de la Cascade
75019 Paris

http://www.rosabonheur.fr/

 

© 2012 Pasa’s Paris

Le Petit Bordelais: A Gastronomic Bordeaux Experience in Paris

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Le Petit Bordelais via idealgourmet.fr

Paris is full of hot restaurants, but if you’re looking for something extraordinary, try a gastronomic restaurant with a Michelin-starred chef. Le Petit Bordelais in the seventh arrondissement near the Eiffel Tower showcases the best of Bordeaux with Chef Philippe Pentecôte recreating classic haute cuisine perfectly paired with hand-selected Bordeaux wines.

 

Born and raised on a farm near Saint Emilion, as a young adult chef Pentecôte made his way to Paris. After putting in time as an apprentice and working with the likes of Louis Grondard du Druant, Philippe earned his first Michelin star at Le Relais de Sèvres.  Accepted into the Maîtres cuisiniers de France in 2005 and the Maîtres rôtisseurs in 2011, Pentecôte opened Le Petit Bordelais in 2007.

Inside the restaurant, you will be gracefully shown to your table, whose chairs are tastefully colored in bright shades of Bordeaux. The decor is festive yet formal, and diners enjoy a calm, cozy ambiance. Chef Pentecôte will most likely come around to say “bonjour” and tell you a little bit about the tasty morsels you’ll soon be devouring.

Fois gras with plum jelly

For a special occasion, the Degustation Menu is superb. To start, celebrate the meal with a glass of champagne and pillowy petit fours. Next comes a square glass filled with rillettes de canard topped with a light chive cream. For a strikingly harmonious flavor combination, pay attention to the fois gras on a plate of red plum jelly served with thick slices of freshly baked brown bread and a glass of white wine from Alsace. The mélange of fatty liver, sweet jelly, soft bread and dry wine creates a perfect symphony.

 

 

We’re just getting started, so make room for what follows: turbot with gently wilted spinach and buttery baby turnips with a glass of dry white wine. Then, seasoned tender lamb with no hint of gaminess, minced-mushroom stuffed tomato and an oaky red wine. After that, a cheese plate with both creamy and sharp varieties, salad and champagne vinaigrette swirled elegantly into the shape of a music note on the plate.

Fromage symphony

A bright passion fruit sorbet with pistachio bits and strawberry slices comes in next to cleanse the pallet. Dessert is chocolate and pistachio mousses twirled together in a hard round dark chocolate shell served with a small glass of Lillet Rouge liqueur. This will make your taste buds dance. If you can handle it, finish with an espresso and a bite-sized cannelle, a small pastry with a soft custard center and caramelized crust from Bordeaux.

Throughout the entire meal, service is outstanding: staff come smiling to replace your silverware with each course, and you will never need to wave a hand to get someone’s attention. Chef Pentecôte and his staff deserve all of their rave reviews. Le Petit Bordelais is a true orchestra, emanating class, quality and harmony in everything that it does.

 

Le Petit Bordelais

22 rue Surcouf

75007 Paris

Metro : Invalides

http://www.le-petit-bordelais.fr/en/

 

© 2012 Pasa’s Paris

Aix en Provence: Top Five

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La Rotonde Fountain, Aix en Provence

If you ever grow tired of the dreary Paris clouds and rain, a short three hour train ride to the South of France will have you basking in the Mediterranean sun in no time. Aix en Provence is known for its beautiful fountains, sunny weather, laid-back college atmosphere and sweet little almond melon and honey confectioneries called Calissons, but that’s not all. Here, the best of Aix:

 

 

 

 

  1. Where to stay Located just northwest and within walking distance of the historic city center, Hotel du Globe is a charming, comfortable independent hotel with friendly service and affordable prices. Breakfast is served daily, so why not take your coffee and croissant up to their surprise rooftop deck overlooking the city?

Hotel du Globe rooftop deck

 

  1. Le Cours Mirabeau A stately boulevard lined with leafy trees and dotted with several of the cities many fountains, including a mossy one that gets its water from Begniers hot springs. In this relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere, you’ll want to linger over drinks at the old fashioned café Les Deux Garcons which Cézanne and Zola occasionally frequented, or trendy La Belle Epoque where you can sit and watch the people of Aix stride by all afternoon. On Sundays, try on stylish hats, taste local honey or buy lavender sachets at the outdoor market here.

Mossy fountain on the Cours Mirabeau with water from Begniers hot springs

 

  1. Atelier Cézanne Just north of the city center, Paul Cézanne’s studio and gardens are open to the public. Visitors can step inside Cézanne’s world and view his easels, paints and still life subjects. It seems as if the artist has just stepped out for a bit: everything in the studio looks as if someone has just been using it. Stroll the grounds full of wildlife and have a seat in one of the old chairs outside. It’s easy to see where Cézanne drew his inspiration in such a beautiful place. Additionally, the Granet museum and the Jas de Bouffan estate will be of interest to Cézanne fans.

Everywhere Cezanne went in Aix is marked with this “C”

 

  1. Where to eat The historic city center is full of picturesque places full of tables, chairs and people hidden down tiny medieval streets. Cafés in the hotel de ville square are great for appetizers and aperitifs, while Place des Prêcheurs gets more upscale with La Mado restaurant. You can literally find a local gem around any corner. For outstanding Moroccan cuisine, make a reservation at Le Riad. Service is impeccable, the pastillas and the tajines are out of this world tasty. For dessert, try the assortment of Moroccan pastries with fresh mint tea poured at your table: divine.

Le Riad Moroccan restaurant via asthec.org

 

  1. Day trip Longing to swim in the Mediterranean Sea? A bus from the gare routière (central bus station) in Aix will take you to the train station in Marseille in about twenty minutes. From there, catch a bus to the Pointe Rouge beach. Just south of some of the more rocky main beaches, the sand here is soft and the water is a bright turquoise color. Being a mostly local beach, you may not hear any other Anglophones as you lounge on your towel and watch the wind surfers glide by. Dine on seafood salad or moules frites washed down with a bottle of local rosé at one of the many cafés with seating right on the sand. I don’t know about you, but this is my definition of heaven.

Pointe Rouge Beach, Marseille

 

Seafood salad with octopus

 

 

For more information, visit the Aix tourism office website:

http://en.aixenprovencetourism.com/

© 2012 Pasa’s Paris