Le Valmy, Your Neighborhood Cafe in the 10th

Le Valmy on Canal Saint Martin

When the Parisian grey skies and winter rain begin seeping into your skin, look no further than Le Valmy on Canal Saint Martin for a little haven from the storm.

A friendly server greets you as you come in the door, and you’ll find a place at one of the numerous worn wooden tables. The walls are lined with bookshelves and covered with artwork, the bartender is laughing with some locals at the bar, and every table is full of friends chatting over a drink.

You feel instantly among friends, and you could join in with the group at the bar if you wanted to, seriously. It’s that friendly. We sat at the bar once to try the Beaujolais Nouveau and ended up having a long conversation with the bartender about Montana, cowboys and Jack Daniels.

The drink menu is extensive yet inexpensive, with all of your basic aperitifs, beers, wines and digestives, plus an impressive list of infused rums (cinnamon, apple, coffee) and cocktails, including the best gin and tonic we’ve found in Paris. While all of Le Valmy’s prices are reasonable, the cocktails, while typically quite pricey in Paris, are an especially good deal at only 5 to 6 euros each, and well made at that.

Le Valmy Drinks Menu

The fare here is simple, high quality, and comes at a fair price. The owner apparently makes a trip to Rungis, the world’s largest and best wholesale food market located just outside of Paris, every day. Like that of a typical brasserie, the menu includes mostly red meats, such as rumsteck, accompanied by thick seasoned fries and salad. You’ll definitely want to order a bottle of Minervois to go with that.

Feel free to soak up the relaxed ambiance and spend the entire evening here like most people do. After dinner, order a coffee or even better, a Baileys, to savor an evening spent among friends.

Le Valmy

145 Quai de Valmy

75010 Paris

http://levalmy.free.fr/

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris

Caffé Poteau

Caffe Poteau

The first time we walked into Caffé Poteau we desperately needed an internet connection and noticed the Wi-Fi sticker in the window. A kind looking middle-aged man came out to our table and took our order- un café et un coca. He noticed our accents and introduced himself as Fernando, the owner of Caffé Poteau. Of Portuguese origin himself, he made an effort to be welcoming to us and shook our hands firmly before we left.

As we did not have an internet connection for some time in our apartment, I would often stop by Caffé Poteau for a coffee and a chance to check my email. Fernando noticed that I always used my iphone to connect to the internet, and one day he offered to let me use his own laptop. “L’écran est trop petit! (The screen is too small)” he reasoned.

The definition of the friendly neighborhood café owner, Fernando is always chatting with his regulars about their families, the football (soccer) game on TV, or the local news. Even though we have internet in our apartment now, I still make a trip over to Caffé Poteau for a good crème (latte) and a bit of conversation.

The last time I went by myself I got into a discussion with Fernando and a regular customer about (what else?) American politics. Neither of them had ever been to the states before, and they both seemed to believe that the US capital was New York. They asked me if I liked Obama, and then asked me if Obama was a republican. I tried explaining the difference between republicans and democrats in the US, since the right and the left in France are not exactly equivalent. Somehow the conversation turned to Arnold Schwarzenegger and suddenly the regular was offering to buy me a beer. It was at that point that I decided it was time to go.

Now that we are leaving the neighborhood, I am sad to think that we will no longer be down the street from the friendly little Caffé Poteau. Fernando is always there with a smile and a few kind words when you need a lift. I’m sure we’ll be back again soon though, for a pint and another Arnold Schwarzenegger discussion.

Caffé Poteau

8, rue du Poteau 75018

Metro : Jules Joffrin

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris

La Jolie Bohème

La Jolie Bohème

Situated at the bottom of a stairwell leading up to Sacré Coeur, La Jolie Bohème is an elegant café nestled in on the corner of rue Darwin and rue de la Fontaine du But. It’s located just far enough north to be safe from the noisy Montmartre crowds. With its robin egg blue façade, large windows and generous outdoor seating on the cobblestones, it’s difficult not to be seduced by its charms. Add to that beautiful purple orchids on the tables and a crystal chandelier inside, and your feet will be walking over to a table before you know it.

For breakfast, they offer coffee, orange juice, and a pastry with Nutella or jam for 8 euro. For “le brunch,” they add eggs and sausage, à l’américaine, for 14 euro.

We ventured over for lunch one day, where my husband had a croque madame (9 euro) with the egg perfectly done and a nicely dressed side salad. They have a lovely selection of lunch salads (12 euro): la salade fromagère has warm goat cheese, warm brie and nuts, and la salade italienne comes with prosciutto, mozzarella and basil infused olive oil.  I indulged in the salade périgourdine with melon, tomato, morsels of duck, and foie gras on toast. Heaven. Add a half a carafe (about 4 glasses) of rosé for 8 to 10 euro and you’ve got a wonderful feast.

Come for happy hour between 6 and 9 to enjoy a pint or a cocktail for 5 euro. They also have kir with peach, cassis, strawberry or even violet syrup.

The waitors are friendly, the food is delicious and the prices are fair. Plus, you can always find a seat at this oasis in the 18th.

La Jolie Bohème

13 rue Darwin

75018 Paris

Metro line 12 Lamarck-Caulaincourt

© 2011 Pasa’s Paris