One of my favorite things about France is the market culture. Because it has been ingrained in French society for so long, you will find market places in every French city or town that you visit.
In the 18th arrondissement near the Jules Joffrin metro station, following rue du Poteau to rue Duhesme, is the enchanting Place Charles Bernard. Here is just a sampling of what you will find there:
On both rue du Poteau and rue Duhesme, you can rely on these butcher shops for fragrant poulet roti (for as little as 6 euro) and pommes de terre sautés, as well as sausages and various cuts of beef and other livestock.
Coffee and Tea
Caffé Poteau- 8, rue du Poteau. Your friendly neighborhood café. Fernando, the owner, chats with the regulars all day and plays sports such as le Tour de France and soccer (football for Europeans) on his two flat-screens. Drinks are inexpensive at 1 euro 60 for a coffee, 2 euro for a crème and just under 3 euro for an Amstel, their unique tap beer.
An unmarked Brazilian-style coffee and tea specialty shop on rue Poteau. Come here for your hard-to-find caffeine addictions, such as maté. Across the street from Caffé Poteau.
Traiteur Asiatique- rue du Poteau, rue Duhesme. There are several in this marketplace. Here you can buy chow mien or mushroom chicken by the 100g and spring rolls, rouleaux printemps, are around 1 euro 40 each.
Traituer Grec- rue du Poteau. Come here for all of your olive and baklava needs.
Traiteur Italien- rue du Poteau. This place has pastas, sauces and wines, as well as ready to eat lasagna and meatballs.
Charcuterie de Montmartre- 13 rue du Poteau. For fancier ready to eat choices, try the oeuf norvégien (egg delicately covered in smoked salmon) at 5 euro each.
Crusta Poissons- 63 rue Duhesme. Not the most pretty name, but a good selection of shellfish and crustaceans (oysters, shrimp, crabs) plus many white fish. Two salmon filets for 8 euro.
Monceau Fleurs- 6, rue du Poteau. Chain flower shop with a lovely array of colorful bouquets and plants. 5 euro 50 for a small rosebush, 1 euro for a potted pansy.
Megaflore- 9, rue du Poteau. Smaller-scale (despite the name) and more boutique style. Charming look.
Rue Duhesme and rue du Poteau. From P’tit Basque to Gouda to Roquefort, your nose will lead the way.
Fruits and vegetables
Les Halles de Montmartre- 13, rue du Poteau. This stall has the largest presence. Outside there are several different varieties of grapes, figs, strawberries and peaches, inside are carrots, leeks, tomatoes and dried fruits and nuts. A head of Batavia lettuce costs 1 euro 20, baskets of cherry tomatoes are 2 for 5 euro, and a large basket of Belgian strawberries weighs in at 4 euro.
Nicolas- 7, rue Letort. Chain wine shop with a wide selection. Easy to find a good Bordeaux for under 5 euro. Friendly staff.
Cavàvin- 12, rue du Poteau. Another wine shop with a similar selection. Liquors available as well. Staff are eager to help.
After all that shopping, you will be hungry. Here are a couple suggestions:
Le Reinitas- Place Charles Bernard. Robust lunch menu (entrée + plat) for around 12 euro. Good classics like an omelet with fries and salad. Plentiful outdoor seating on Place Charles Bernard; perfect for watching everyone else do their shopping once you’re done.
Les Jolis mômes- 1, rue Letort, just north of Place Charles Bernard. Trendy yet relaxing atmosphere. Young wait staff. The wine list is painted on the wall at the bar. A demi of Heineken costs 3 euro, the salmon filet is 15 euro. Lamb shank with grilled eggplant: 18 euro.
Place Charles Bernard
Metro Jules Joffrin, line 12
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